Porchetta

Emily asked for a fall dinner featuring pork for her birthday, and I got it into my head that I would make porchetta. Traditionally, this rolled, slow-roasted herby pork dish was made from the belly and loin of a whole pig. Early in the 20th century, Italian immigrants in Philadelphia adapted it to use more available butcher cuts, and an American classic was born.

I found lots of different recipes and techniques to prepare porchetta, but I was drawn to one that combined pounded pork belly and pork tenderloin. Tenderloin is readily available in any grocery store, but I had seen slabs of pork belly at the big box warehouse just a couple of days before. When I headed over there to get some, though, I realized the packages were 8-10 pounds each. 

Believe me, I thought about it long and hard before leaving the place empty-handed, but I just could not justify the extra pounds of pork belly. "We probably could have given the extra away," Heidi suggested generously when I told her of my plight. Could we have, though?

As this was Friday morning and the roast needed to be rolled a day in advance, suddenly, I was on the clock. The next place I shopped was a supermarket in a chain known for its natural and organic inventory. They did have pork belly, but it was already portioned, and the butcher apologetically informed me that there were no larger pieces in back. As the prospect of finding what I wanted dimmed, I bought a couple of Breton chops, thinking they might come in handy should I have to pivot.

The next couple of places did not stock pork belly at all, so I threw some boneless shoulder chops and thick-cut bacon into my cart alongside the pork tenderloin. And, since I wanted to serve it with an intense, porky jus, I also tossed a rack of ribs (on sale) and six chicken legs.

And that's what I had to work with when I got home later that afternoon. I lined a baking sheet with plastic wrap and nestled slices of the relatively lean bacon side by side. Then I pounded the well-marbled shoulder chops into uniform oblongs and laid them over the bacon. I sprinkled some toasted fennel seed, rosemary, and red pepper powder from my garden over the meat. Then I butterflied the tenderloin and rubbed it with the same spice mix before placing it atop the other pork. I rolled the whole thing tightly and placed it in the fridge to rest for 24 hours.

The porky jus simmered a couple of hours the next afternoon while the porchetta roasted in a low oven. When it reached 140 degrees, I took it out and let it rest, turning the oven to 475 for its final blast to crisp up the bacon.

It was only when everyone arrived that I considered what a gamble I had taken. I had no idea how the main dish was going to turn out until it was time to serve it. Even so, my confidence, or over-confidence, in the kitchen set my mind at ease. And when I sliced into it? It looked great, a perfect spiral of tender pork and herbs. 

It also passed my one true cooking test. As we enjoyed the roast, its sauce, some spelt, and a fall vegetable platter, I posed a question to my guests. "Would you ask for this again?" I inquired, and they allowed as they would.