Scammed

Yes, that was us last evening standing in the busy Vancouver Sea Bus terminal trying to figure out how to use the fare machines. Perhaps our confusion was further compounded by the unfamiliar currency; certainly I've seen tableaus like ours many times in our public transit stations. There we were, a five CAD bill in hand when a gaunt woman with filthy teeth, lank grayish-brown hair, and wild blue eyes approached us with a handful of coins. Adding to our confusion, she offered to trade us her money for ours. There was a moment of wondering whether that would make it easier to use the machine, and then it all went downhill so fast. She took the five and before she handed over the change she dropped some pennies on the ground. Everyone's attention was diverted-- "Get that one!" she pointed and then turned on her heel and took off for the door without ever handing over the coins. I felt foolish and angry, but I also felt pity-- all that trouble for what amounted to three US dollars and 85 cents? She obviously needs it more than we do.

Sorry Vancouver

Sure, you have ocean and mountains. You have several cute neighborhoods, an Olympic stadium, lots of coffee shops, breweries, markets, sea buses, and an awesome public park with gardens, beaches, and totem poles. After a week at sea, I also very much appreciate your city water and flushing toilets. You seem to be a really nice city, but you're just not... Alaska. 

A Dolphin Never Forgets

As our ship cruised through the narrows of Queen Charlotte Strait on the last leg of our journey, the 6 o'clock evening sun blazed full on the water behind us. Squinting off our balcony into the nearly blinding copper light I thought I saw sleek figures leaping and surfing our wake. Sure enough, at least a dozen dolphins were having a little fun cutting across the current our cruiser created.

For many years, we took our sixth graders to Lewes, Delaware for the end of the year trip. There we would spend the morning on the beach and take a dolphin-watching cruise on the bay in the afternoon. It was a great trip, especially because we were the Dolphin Team, and in general, we saw quite a few dolphins, although some years were better than others. Unfortunately, the year my nephew, Treat, was in my class, it was cool and rainy on the beach, and we may have spotted three Dolphins all told.

A few summers later we went kayaking in Maine, and Treat and I shared a tandem. Not five minutes in, we were surrounded by harbor porpoises. They swam alongside of us silently gliding in and out of eastern Bay. 

"Wow!" Treat said simply. 

"I know!" I answered. 

"I just saw more Dolphins in 5 minutes than I did on that whole sixth grade field trip!"

Proverbial

We spent a little time shopping in Ketchikan before our tour to Saxman Village this afternoon. After two days in Anchorage, and stops in Denali, Icy Strait Point, Juneau, and Skagway, all the shops have started running together.  

"I can't look at another tshirt or sweatshirt," I told Heidi, "I just can't!" But of course I did. In each port the trick became to find the store that was different. 

One such place we saw today was a confectioners with all sorts of sweets made on the premises. It was called "Ketchi-candy" which I found kind of  ketchi, har har har. Right outside three little girls were fussing at their mom.

"How can you take a kid into a candy store and not buy anything?" one demanded. I looked at their mother; unfazed, she winked at me, and the two of us laughed. 

"You are just mean!" another of the girls pronounced, and then she flounced her hair over her shoulder and stalked away toward their, ahem, cruise ship. 

Exciting and New

The first thing I do every morning on this cruise is step out onto the balcony to see what amazement lies beyond the railing. We made port in Skagway before I woke up today, so this morning I was greeted by the green waters of Taiya Inlet surrounded by incredible mountains. 

A seal poked its head up across the way, where another cruise ship was docked. The deep water port of Skagway makes it a popular stop on the Alaskan cruise circuit, and this restored gold stampede town of 750 was about to expand by a factor of 10 as the tourist stampede in the form of four ocean liners arrived for the day. 

Truth be told, we've seen quite a few other cruisers on this trip, but I did a double take when I saw the name of the ship off my deck this morning. Pacific Princess... Why wasn't that? Surely it couldn't be? The Love Boat! It didn't look quite as I remembered it, but it's been 20 years or more since I saw an episode. 

Luckily, there was good phone service there in Skagway, so a quick internet search turned up the sad fact that the original Pacific Princess had gone to a scrap yard in Turkey last year. This imposter was nothing more than her replacement. I sighed in disappointment. 

Fortunately, there was still Skagway and a trip up to the Yukon on the White Pass Railway to look forward to.

Come aboard, we're expecting you!

So Lucky

This is one of the rainiest places on earth, but we have sailed under blue skies and puffy white clouds today, warm sun on our faces and cool breezes on our backs. After a whirlwind visit to Juneau this morning, they had a barbecue on the the outdoor deck for lunch, and so as the crew prepared the ship for departure we found ourselves lounging poolside, looking for bald eagles on Mt. Rogers, and watching the sea planes swoop over us to land on the Gastineau Channel.

A little while later, we spent over an hour hanging out on our balcony watching whales spout off in the distance and catching our breath at the dramatic glacier-carved scenery as we cruised the Tracey Arm on our way to view the Sawyer Glacier. Exquisite aquamarine ice bergs floated beneath 7,000 foot mountains laced with narrow waterfalls that plunged steeply into the narrow fjord on either side of us. Surrounded by wilderness as far as we could see, it was impossibly beautiful-- one of those rare moments in life when there's no doubt just how lucky you are. 

Don't Call Me Ishmael

Curious how some of the most terrible dangers of the sea from past centuries have become today's tourist attractions. Yesterday we sailed through scores of ice bergs (small ones to be sure, but genuine ice bergs never the less) to reach a glacier, and this afternoon our cruise director (not Julie, but Richard) gleefully announced that we would soon enter "whale water." 

Awesome!