Old Faithful

Since Allyn was in town less than 24 hours, I thought it might be nice to take her to lunch today before dropping her off at Dulles for her flight to Amsterdam. She follows a gluten-free diet, but that isn't really a big deal around here. Even so, I invited her to Carlyle, a neighborhood staple with excellent gluten-free options.

At 12:30 on a Thursday, the place was full, and the hostess told us it would be a 15 to 25-minute wait. I deferred to my guest, and she opted to stay, so we took a seat on the banquette by the plate glass windows beneath the stairs and waited in companionable silence. Unlike many of my fellow patrons, I did not take out my phone as I sat. Instead, I people-watched, observed the busy restaurant at work, and considered how lucky it is to have such a dependable place within walking distance of home. 

Carlyle has been open for nearly 40 years, but I remember when it was new and called Carlyle Grand. The tasteful Art Deco decor has held up well; vintage-inspired then, it is classic now. The menu seems to have changed very little over the years, too, but I know that's not true. A rather tepid 1987 review by Phyllis Richmond praises the polenta, pan-fried veal dumplings, and noodle cake appetizers, which are dishes that vanished decades ago.

At any rate, I can honestly say I've never had a bad meal at Carlyle. Over the years, it's been a reliable go-to for brunch (donut holes and smoked trout with eggs!) and dinner. I've taken countless out-of-town guests there and celebrated many last days of school with a lobster roll for lunch. Their fries are nearly always perfect, and they have one of the best burgers in town.

Today, it was worth the wait. We were seated upstairs within 20 minutes, surrounded by six tops of what seemed to be office holiday revelers. The vibe was festive, and the service was friendly and efficient. Allyn loved her burger, and my grilled chicken sandwich was tender and juicy, served on crispy grilled bread with a tangy smear of mustard.

And the fries were perfect.