On our recent weekend in Charlottesville, we toured the mansions of two of the founding fathers, Jefferson's Monticello and Madison's Montpelier. Both of our guides were knowledgeable, respectful, and mindful of the complicated history of the men they were presenting. Even so, I came away with a huge ick feeling, specifically about the people these champions of democracy enslaved and the self-serving justification of that immorality, especially after standing in the room where the Constitution was drafted.
So, when we were looking for a way to spend our afternoon while visiting Atlanta, the chance to visit the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historical Park seemed like a refreshing counterpoint. To be honest, it was King's childhood home that I most wanted to see; I'm drawn to the quotidian details of historic lives. But with the timing of our arrival, touring Ebenezer Baptist Church first made more sense, so we headed across the street and joined the line on the sidewalk stretching down the block from the heavy wooden entry doors.
At two o'clock sharp, we started to move forward, and soon we found ourselves in a small vestibule with stairs going up and down. We were ushered down to a large open room with green walls and tile and rows of folding chairs facing a podium on a low stage. This was the Fellowship Hall of the old church, and soon we were joined by a ranger who took the dais and began his talk on the history of the place and its association with Dr.King.
His delivery style intentionally invoked a sermon like the many that had been delivered there and upstairs in the sanctuary in the century since the church had been built. The information he gave us was surprising and even shocking in how unfamiliar it was to most of the eighty or so people in the audience. Discovering that Ebenezer means stone of hope or stone of help was interesting, and considering that the church had had only five pastors since its founding in 1886, including Dr. King's grandfather and father, as well as Senator Raphael Warnock, who leads the congregation today.
But it was shocking to hear how Martin Luther King Jr.'s mother was shot and killed on the pulpit by a demented young man from Ohio as she played the organ for Sunday services on June 30, 1974. How could such a tragedy have escaped my notice for over 50 years?
More than an hour later, the ranger led us upstairs to the sanctuary, which has been restored to look just as it did on February 4, 1968, when Dr. King delivered his last sermon there. We all slid into worn wooden pews beneath pinkish plaster walls and a pressed metal ceiling as a recording of King's homily, "The Drum Major Instinct", echoed through speakers. These were the very words that would be played as a eulogy at his funeral here two months later; King's voice accompanied his mourners as they filed by his casket.
It was a genuinely moving experience, even more so in contrast to the other tours we'd taken earlier in the week.